How to plant roses in coconut
The term "Rambler Rose", in German Schlingrose, comes from English (to ramble = to wander around) and summarizes a group of twining or twining roses. The background to the name is the soft, flexible and long shoots of these wild rose hybrids, which conquer pergolas, climbing aids and even tree tops on their own. Like all other roses, ramblers or rambler roses belong to the large family of the rose plants (Rosaceae) and were created in the 19th century through the crossing of two Chinese rose species. In contrast to normal climbing roses, rambler roses have a lot of small flowers, have longer shoots, grow significantly higher and bloom - with the exception of fewer varieties - only once a year.
Appearance and stature
Rambler roses have meter-long shoots with which they grow into sparse, old trees up to heights of up to ten meters. Their shoots, which are often reminiscent of lianas, are long, soft and flexible and therefore ideal for planting large pergolas and imposing archways. Some varieties grow very bushy, others even creep. From a botanical point of view, rambler roses belong to the so-called splay climbers, that is, they are always looking for a hold with their prickly shoots. If the search is successful, they hook on with the help of the spikes. Most rambler roses have many small flowers that are in lush flower clusters. Mostly they bloom only once a year, but very richly and impressively over several weeks. In addition to the main flowering season in early June, there are also early and late blooming varieties that start to bloom as early as early May or late June. Some species produce a second pile in late summer, but this is much less lush than the first. After flowering, most ramblers will develop rose hips.
Location and soil
Rambler roses are extremely robust and undemanding. While most roses are absolute sun worshipers, rambler roses prefer a partially shaded location where the long shoots can grow towards sunlight. It is important to have a location that is as airy as possible so that moisture in the leaf area can dry off quickly. This significantly reduces the risk of powdery mildew. The soil should be rich in nutrients, and rambler roses prefer a humus-rich, well-drained substrate. Too acidic soil is not good for the plant and should be brought to a normal pH value with the help of algae lime.
If you want to plant a rambler rose in your garden, you should bear in mind that such a rose will take up quite a bit of space over the years. The best time to plant bare-root roses is in autumn; Container goods can be planted throughout the summer. Choose a location that meets the above conditions. A simple garden soil can be upgraded by adding deposited compost. If you want to grow your Rambler into a tree, it is best to choose the north side and plant it downwind. The wind pushes the rose into the tree, which prevents individual shoots from breaking off.
Before you plant your rambler rose on a tree, make sure that there is sufficient space of at least 80 centimeters between the planting pit and the tree. This will make the rose develop better. With the help of a ladder or a coconut rope, the rose can be guided directly into the treetop. The rose paves the rest of the way by itself. A suitable tree for a rambler rose should have a trunk diameter of at least 30 to 40 centimeters in order to be able to carry the load caused by the plant. Caution: You should never plant the rambler rose directly in the soil of the tree, because an ingrown tree would be clearly superior to a young rose in the fight for nutrients and water. Tip: Put your rambler rose in a large, bottomless plastic bucket.
Before the rose is placed in the ground, it is advisable to cut back the rambler's shoots to 40 centimeters. This stimulates strong budding. In the case of bare-root roses, an overnight immersion bath ensures that the shoots and roots are sufficiently moist for a better start in the soil. Then a large hole is dug. The excavation should be exchanged for humus-rich plant soil or enriched with compost. Then put the plant in, fill the hole again, press the soil lightly and water vigorously. A rambler rose does not need any fertilizer immediately after planting.
At the beginning, the rambler rose should be watered frequently, always only in the root area, in order to prevent fungal infestation. After the first year, additional watering then only has to be carried out if it is very dry. With good soil preparation, additional fertilizer is only necessary after a whole growing season. It is best to start fertilizing in the spring when the first shoots appear. Compost or horn shavings are suitable. In June after flowering, it is advisable to top up with commercially available rose fertilizers. Work the fertilizer flat into the soil around the plant, but proceed carefully so that the sensitive roots are not damaged.
Roses grow better and bloom more abundantly if you feed them with fertilizer in the spring after they have been cut. Garden expert Dieke van Dieken explains in this video what you need to consider and which fertilizer is best for roses
Credits: MSG / CreativeUnit / Camera + Editing: Fabian Heckle
As a rule, rambler roses do not need a classic pruning. In the case of rambler roses that bloom once, a small cut is made if necessary, in which the densely growing shoots are thinned out or dead, wilted branches are removed. However, you should not do this before the third year. The best time to do this is in spring, when the forsythia is in bloom. Otherwise, you can remove any that has faded after flowering, but this can be difficult due to the height of the plant. This measure is only necessary for visual reasons.
In the case of rambler roses that bloom more often, only pruning should be carried out in the heavily overgrown branches. Radical pruning must be avoided as it would significantly reduce the flowering potential.
The rambler varieties that can be purchased in this country are hardy and therefore do not require any special winter protection. Only in the case of freshly planted or self-propagated plants should frost protection in the form of brushwood, mulch or a frost protection fleece be used in the first two winters.
In this video we will show you how to properly overwinter your roses
Credit: MSG / CreativeUnit / Camera: Fabian Heckle / Editor: Ralph Schank
Rambler roses are mostly used for greening house walls, carports, archways and pergolas. In this way, in the third year after planting at the latest, they create a fairytale ambience even in dreary garden corners. Very often they also conquer old fruit trees and after the spring blossom of the trees in June and July they enchant with a further blaze of color. For this, the selected trees must already be "grown up". Deep-rooted larches, pines or laburnum are ideally suited, as they do not give the shallow-rooted ramblers too much competition. Rambler roses cover everything that stands in their way with a colored ribbon of flowers. If the climbers cannot find a hold, they pull their long shoots across the whole area over stones and embankments. What is fascinating about climbing roses is that, despite their long shoots, they can cope even in small gardens and in the narrowest of planting areas. Ramblers such as ‘Bobby James’ have proven themselves as fence and dog roses. They are a space-saving, easily malleable, colorful hedge alternative for cramped locations where there is simply not enough space for a bush rose hedge to grow freely.
There are more than 170 different varieties of rambler roses; the most popular are:
- "Albéric Barbier":cream, double, single flowering, 300-500 centimeters
- "Bobby James": white, semi-double, single-flowering, 300-500 centimeters
- ‘Filipes Kiftsgate’:creamy white, single, blooming once, 700-900 centimeters
- ‘Flame dance®’:red, double, single-flowering, 300-500 centimeters
- "Paul Noel":pink, double, re-flowering, 300-500 centimeters
- "Paul's Himalayan Musk":light purple to pink, semi-double, blooming once, 600-1,000 centimeters
- "Robber barons":light purple-pink, semi-double, single-flowering, 250–350 centimeters
- "Super Dorothy®":pink, double, often blooming, 300-500 centimeters
- "Super Excelsa®":carmine pink, double, often blooming, 300-500 centimeters
- "Violet blue":violet, loosely double, blooming once, 300-500 centimeters
- "Venusta Pendula":pink / white, semi-double, blooming once, 300–500 centimeters
Rambler roses are easy to propagate by cuttings. The best time to do this is at the end of July / beginning of August. To do this, cut off pencil-long pieces with at least three leaves from a one-year-old shoot. Remove all but the top two sheets. There should be a leaf or bud at the bottom of the cutting. The cutting is then dipped in rooting powder and placed in a pot filled with soil. Then all you have to do is water the cutting well, cover it with a foil cover and place it in a protected, partially shaded place outdoors. Alternatively, the cuttings can also be planted in humus-rich soil in a partially shaded spot in the open air. Place an empty mason jar over the cutting and keep the soil evenly moist. Waterlogging should be avoided. In winter, the young plants need special protection from mulch, brushwood or a frost protection fleece, as they are still somewhat sensitive to the cold. Incidentally, the propagation of rose cuttings in potatoes is often touted as an insider tip.
Diseases and pests
Like all roses, rambler roses are also somewhat prone to powdery mildew and other fungal diseases. Therefore, make sure there is sufficient air circulation and always water the rambler roses from below. Also, do not plant the rambler roses on a hot south wall, as this favors powdery mildew. If necessary, a large-leaved ivy can cover the hot masonry and act as a cool backdrop for the rose. If the rambler's leaves are curling, this is most likely an indication of the rose petal wasp. It lays its eggs on the leaf margins and larvae grow in the rolled up leaves. It is best to remove the affected leaves immediately and dispose of them with household waste. Aphids are also occasionally found in rambler roses. A shower with a water hose often helps. If the rose leaf hoppers are attacked, the tops of the leaves are speckled with white and small greenish-white insects appear on the underside. If this infestation becomes too strong, it is best to use a suitable pesticide.
In an interview with MEIN SCHÖNER GARTEN editor Dieke van Dieken, doctor René Wadas reveals his tips against aphids.
Credits: Production: Folkert Siemens; Camera and editing: Fabian Primsch
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